In this part of western Victoria you will find a small coastal town not given to any pretension, where the Southern Ocean, salty air and old heritage cottages are one and the same. Here is how to put together a worthwhile visit to Port Fairy, what to book up, where to make for a swim and how to get there.
I am Arabella Kinsella. I have little patience for travel writing that does not tell it like it is; if the car park is at capacity or the wind is being rude about your “short walk” turning into a three hour affair, I want to know. With some sensible shoes and a modicum of planning, Port Fairy is well worth the slow exploration it demands, come school holidays or festival season.
Port Fairy Sets The Scene
At the mouth of the Moyne River on the south-west coast of Victoria is Port Fairy. One could call it a historic village, a working coastal town or a beach escape; it is all of those with Griffiths Island, a fishing spot or Killarney Beach not far off.
Travellers here are more inclined to put in some walking and sample the local fare and open water than to keep to a packed agenda. Then there is the weather to contend with and strong winds off the coast on a busy weekend. Do not expect the Southern Ocean to accommodate your picnic plans.
A Quick Planning Snapshot
| Travel question | Practical answer |
|---|---|
| Best for | Those after a laid back beach holiday, as well as families, walkers and the likes of history and food enthusiasts |
| Ideal stay | Put in two or three nights to see the town and do some of the drives in the vicinity |
| Getting around | You can putter around the central village but a car is most useful |
| Weather issue | Rough surf and rain have a way of scuppering plans |
| When it gets busy | Long weekends, summer and school holidays, plus festival time |
| Budget | Book a table at the restaurant in advance and set aside a bit more for a room on an event weekend |
Best Things To Do In Port Fairy
There is no better way to spend a day in Port Fairy than with some looking around and a bit of movement. Start in the village streets by the river and let the weather be your guide to a walk on the island or the beach.
You will see many a visitor making the mistake of trying to cram in all the attractions in a single day. It is a better proposition to leave yourself time for a change of plan or to put in an appearance at the bakery.
Walk The Moyne River
Make the Moyne River your first port of call. An early morning stroll is generally more tranquil, you can follow the streets to the historic centre and see the boats in the harbour. Later in the afternoon the wind tends to pick up. And even in warm months take along a jumper; the coastal weather can go from pleasant to rough in the blink of an eye.
The Historic Village
Much of the character of Port Fairy is in its old buildings. A heritage walk is a good way to get a feel for the days of settlement and shipping without making it feel like a school trip. There is no need to hurry from one named attraction to the next, have a good look at the stone work, the gardens and the weatherboard homes.
Fishing And Golf
You can put in some time at the Port Fairy Golf Club when the beach is too much to bear and you would rather have a scorecard than sand. For a quieter half-day it is ideal.
As for fishing, it is still something of a local pastime, be it on a charter or from the shore. But before you cast off, check on safety and licences; the swell and wind can render some exposed places uncomfortable.
Beaches And Coastal Walks
Do not be swayed by photographs, conditions will dictate which of the Port Fairy beaches you choose. Some are fine for the family to putter about on, others are too cold and rough for swimming.
Pea Soup Beach
For a rock-pool or a walk in a sheltered setting Pea Soup Beach is a favourite. But once you are on the rock platforms, wear something with a grip and do not have your back to an incoming wave. Rain or sea spray makes them treacherous and the ocean has no respect for your confidence.
Killarney Beach
If you are in need of a little more elbow room head to Killarney Beach, just outside of the central town. A driving itinerary is well served by this, in particular for the traveller of several nights’ duration who wants to put the main village behind him.
One should not make of the drive a quick dash; take your time with stops and have a look at the forecast first. And be sure to put some water, food and sun protection in the car as you will find services are not so convenient once you are off the centre.
Your Walking Conditions
On a day without wind or rain the coastal tracks are no trouble at all, but soft ground will change that. Make allowances for uneven terrain, a child or someone pausing over the birds and time for a few photographs.
- An outing in town can be made easy with a short beach walk and a tour of the central streets and Moyne River.
- Griffiths Island, Killarney Beach or the Rail Trail from Port Fairy to Warrnambool are options for those with a longer day.
- When the weather is poor, one would do better to make for the heritage buildings, a café or gallery and keep any waterfront walk brief.
Griffiths Island And The Wildlife
You will recognise Griffiths Island as a Port Fairy staple. The route affords views of the coast and birdlife, not to mention the little penguin colony, though they are wild and not there to put on a show. Daylight is best for a visit. Heed the signs, and if dogs are allowed, keep them in hand. Do not be shining lights on wildlife after dark and stay on the path; a more circumspect manner is less of an intrusion.
What You Might Not Anticipate
The outer track is not going to be as warm and calm as a stop at a sunny café, nor is it as flat as the town. Wind is more of a factor on the island and the footing can be uneven. Put on closed shoes and a windproof layer and bring water. Those with limited mobility would be wise to enquire as to access before heading out, given the exposed nature of some of the coastal paths.
Port Fairy’s History
Fishing, shipping and the early days of settlement have left their mark on the town’s maritime past and its heritage streets, which are what set it apart from a newer beach suburb. As for the name, do not think it was just changed overnight from one modern appellation to another. In its colonial history the area has been known by other names, Belfast for instance, before Port Fairy was settled upon.
Heritage Walks
To get the most from a heritage walk consider how the port and river relate to the buildings. The old cottages were part of a working settlement subject to the elements and the need for water, not put in place for the sake of a postcard. An hour or 90 minutes is enough for a self-guided stroll, more so if you want to eat or take in a view. Comfortable shoes are a must, the pavements are not always even.
Accommodation
There is everything from caravan sites and motels to guesthouses and apartments in Port Fairy. Whether you require a kitchen or outdoor space or simply parking will determine where you book. For long weekends, summer holidays and the Folk Festival put in your booking early. Weekdays are usually fine but a good property will be gone in a hurry when the forecast is favourable.
Make Your Stay Suit Your Purposes
If the plan is to put in some walking to the river, the shops and cafés then a central location is called for. Go a bit further out for room to park but you will be using the car more. A couple may be content with a small room in the village, families will want a laundry and kitchen. Bicycles need secure storage, do not count on a narrow porch.
Then There Is The Reality
You may expect seclusion from every option but on an event weekend the roads are full of visitors and older structures are not soundproof. Have a read of the property details and cancellation terms and inquire about the heating; there is nothing romantic about a beanie on a coastal weekend.
Food And Events
The visitor economy is propped up by a culture of events and fine dining as well as the local produce found in the pubs and cafés. But come a busy spell and tables are hard to come by.
The Folk Festival is the one everyone has marked down. Dates are not fixed so check the programme for the year in question before you commit to transport or a room.
Weekend Planning
For a trip to Port Fairy this weekend from Melbourne or elsewhere in Victoria, sort out your restaurant and accommodation and see what the road and event conditions are like. You might get away with same-day arrangements in the off season but during a festival it is a risk.
Make a reservation for dinner and put in an appearance earlier than you might normally; it is wise to factor in parking time away from the more congested streets. When there is a big event on, one will find it less of a chore to walk than to be shifting the car about.
Seasonal Travel Advice
The long days of summer are in high demand. Come autumn and you will have cooler weather for your walks and things are generally more sedate. Winter has its atmosphere but is rather exposed and the elements can put paid to any beach intentions. Spring is agreeable if the coastal weather holds, though it is not always reliable.
You will not find a perfect season. What is best is dictated by what you put first: a good swim or table, some wildlife, a festival or a bit of walking.
Getting To Port Fairy And The Surrounds
For getting to Port Fairy and to put in some miles around the beaches and other towns, driving is the way to go. From Melbourne it is no small regional drive so if you intend to make several stops, set aside the day for it.
With public transport you have to plan more and make connections. See the timetables for yourself prior to setting out as regional services, seasonal variations and replacement buses will have an impact.
Port Fairy To Warrnambool
Travellers with their sights on both Port Fairy and Warrnambool will find the latter a natural complement. The pair make a fine short itinerary replete with history, food, coastal walks and a choice of where to put up.
Cyclists and walkers looking for something more active can take the Rail Trail between the two. But do check the surface and the weather and how you are getting back before you set off; going one way without a return is an expensive way to learn.
Melbourne And Portland
Most visitors come via Melbourne while those making their way west will find Portland logical. The Great Ocean Road may figure in your plans but give credit to the traffic, fatigue and the need to stop for the view.
If you are in for two days, make Port Fairy your base and see Griffiths Island and a beach or two. Three nights or more and you can extend to Warrnambool, the rail trail, Killarney Beach or Portland as you see fit.
A One-Day Plan
Get there early to put in some walking along the Moyne River and the old streets, then lunch in town and head for Pea Soup Beach or over to Griffiths Island. An early dinner is in order before the drive home, from Melbourne in particular.
Active adults and older children will be fine with this, but it is not for those who would prefer a slow pace or assured swimming weather and abhor the wheel. Put in a second night and it is far less of a rush.
Frequently Asked Questions
We have put together some of the questions travellers like to have answered before they book. Verify any time-sensitive matter such as access, transport, prices or dates before you leave.
When was the name changed?
In its colonial days the place was called Belfast until Port Fairy was made the official moniker. It is a matter of history and administration, not some recent rebrand for the tourists.
Distance from Melbourne?
Some 290 km by road. In truth the time taken is at the mercy of the route and the weather. Consider it a proper regional drive and not a quick trip out of the city.
Dates for the Folk Festival?
They are set for the annual programme but are subject to change. Look at the official information from the festival before you put down accommodation, demand and cost have a way of spiking.
What is the average age?
That is a question of which figures and period you are using. I would be loath to put a number on it without citing the Australian Bureau of Statistics, given that median is what is usually put forward and population data is fluid.
Is it for everyone to live here?
Those who appreciate a community and a smaller coastal town with its beaches will be content. If you require the appurtenances of a major city, specialist services in abundance or much in the way of public transport, you will not be suited to it.
Making Your Visit Count
Give Port Fairy room to breathe. Do some exploring of the village and river, pick a beach that suits the conditions and allow for the odd diversion and a change in the weather.
Check with the official local information from the Moyne Shire on road and safety matters and your accommodation before you go. A windproof jacket and sensible shoes and some patience will be better company on the road than an over-ambitious schedule.
Be it a weekend for the festival, a day or a more protracted run along the Great Ocean Road, Port Fairy is a solid coastal escape with the history and variety to make for an interesting trip without having to hurry from one thing to the next.
